To me, when I hear the term deviled as a descriptor for food, I think spicy. This is why deviled eggs are odd to me because they never seem to be spicy at all.
I also think it's weird that something associated with the devil could ever be white and yellow (the colors of angel robes and sunshine!?).
If you look at traditional Yucatecan recipes, there are many dishes that utilize hard boiled eggs. I never have found out why, so I must assume it was just a highly available source of protein once upon a time.
During your research, you will also see repetitive use of pickled red onions, habanero chiles and a jet black seasoning paste called chilmole.
We took all of this and used it as inspiration for our own version of deviled eggs.
Egg whites are stained red with beet juice and the pickling brine leftover from our pickled red onions. The yolks are blended with chilmole to create a black heart.
To ensure heat we serve it with a little side of Yucatecan style habanero salsa.
For the record, I have never been on team burrito. The tortilla to filling ratio has always bothered me and watching office drones line up to buy and eat these sadness wraps before rushing back to the office is acutely depressing.
Despite all this, one night at home, my wife Lauren wanted one so I made them and they ended up being delicious to me in a dirty sort of way.
Hard cooked scrambled eggs, pinto beans fried with jalapeños, bacon, chorizo, grated cheese and rice that was made with one those packets that makes everything orange…This was all wrapped up in a flour tortilla and served with a side of warm tomato salsa enriched with Valentina hot sauce and pigs foot stock.
We made them small which I love because it takes it all into the realm of a noncommittal snack.
We ate them late night with some tequila and it felt good so I decided to put these breakfast burritos on the menu at Al Pastor where we have zero intention of ever actually opening for breakfast.
Chilmole is a seasoning paste made from roasted garlic, spices and the ashes of chiles. It smokes out any place it's made in and smells like an ashtray during its production, yet it yields something delicious and indispensable in our kitchens in the end.
At Al Pastor, we use it to flavor a playfully confusing side dish of white beans. People will send them back sometimes because they are expecting them to be white when have actually taken them to the dark side by simmering them in this delicious blackened broth flavored with our chilmole.
As we continue to step up our bar snack game at Al Pastor, we continue to look at typical Mexican antojitos for inspiration.
The term gordita can mean different things regionally. In this case, it means a small, extra thick tortilla made from corn masa that's been stained with mild guajillo chile. The tortillas are fried on the griddle, sliced in half laterally and used the same way you would use two slices of bread to make a sandwich. This one gets stuffed with a simple mixture of potatoes and green chiles.
It made the menu because it's delicious, but also because I love how it's in opposition of our current carbo-phobic climate.
This dish will debut on the menu November 1st.